FUZHOU, China -- Stepping into Hong Dong Fisheries’ head office in Fuzhou, China, it is hard to fathom the firm’s huge international reach. In the glum building, photos of fish caught thousands of miles away adorn the stairwell -- octopus, sardines, snappers, rays, spotted seabass, white seabream, milk shark, Spanish mackerel, horse mackerel, soles, congers, cuttlefish, ribbonfish, mullet, shrimp and john dorys -- providing the only clue. [...]